Each morning, we receive our incredible breakfast at a
picturesque site at the edge of the riverbed. The food spread they put on here at Tanda Tula is spectacular in terms of both presentation as well as quality of food. It is both elegant in its simplicity and scrumptious in taste.
Tanda
Tula puts the "glam" in "glamping" - glamorous camping - for sure.
As we walk, he points out the tracks on the ground....the
giraffe, the leopard and how it differs from the lion, this bird vs. that bird,
the rhino, the elephant, the buffalo, the hyena and how it differs from some
others, and on and on. How he can see the shapes in the sand remind me of how
people can see shapes in the stars. As
Formen takes a small stick laying nearby and seemingly completes or draws with
better distinction each print, the tracks come to life.
Oh, yes, now I
see....
He and our tracker, Jeffrey, were masters at seeing these signs and
stories in the dirt as we drive by in our Rover each and every day. They see
what walked there, when and in what direction. We frequently would follow those
on our drives hoping to find the author of those storied tracks at the end of
the trail. At times, Formen would stop the Rover, Jeffrey and he would get out
and piece together the puzzle of some of the more convoluted meanderings. They
would decide how the story went, and off we would go in pursuit. Every drive
was an adventure. From these walks, we could understand better what they were
looking for, looking at and how the stories jumped off the ground for them.
Formen continued conveying his encyclopedic knowledge of the
plants, the piles of dung and what they said about the animal depositing them.
The hippo was using his tail to spread and mark which is why it wasn't in a
neat pile like many of the others; the elephant digests only 40% of their meal so
you can see precisely the grass, leaves and even thorns eaten (and so is also a
great fire starter!); the male vs. female of this animal or that; the buffalo's
4-chamber stomach that produces a highly processed pile, etc., etc. I now know more about the medicinal uses of
the plants and which ones I can brush my teeth with, should I ever be lost out
in the bush (which I hope to never need!).
As we walked, we could better hear the sounds of the bush
without the motor of the Rover, and Formen would tell us the identity of each
caller of sounds. If there were any questions about which sound he was
identifying, he could mimic them as if he were one of them. In fact, in one
case, we came across some owls that were calling out. When Formen called out to them in their own
language, they responded back in kind. Each piece of knowledge was a
translation of a chapter in the story of the bush. With each step, we could
read more and more and appreciated more and more of the story, as we were now a
part of it. I would later that afternoon hear the stories of the sounds at my front door.
For more information on the lodge I stayed at, see here:Tanda Tula
For more of my pictures while on safari at Tanda Tula, see here:My African Safari-Best Shots2 and here: My African Safari - Best Shots1
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