It was an unusually quiet night overnight and I awoke to a
calm, still morning that was pleasingly mild in temperature. The sun never really broke through the
clouds, though, so it stayed rather chilly throughout the day. Instead of
stripping off the layers one by one starting around 7:30am and down to our base
layer by 9am, we kept our full packages on throughout the morning ride.
This morning's drive was another viewing of all of the
"Big 5", but it could be characterized more by the importance and
role of "the kill" to the kingdom here. We started off by revisiting
the hyena's sickly buffalo kill that occurred overnight on my first night that
we observed that first morning. We had returned to it the previous evening and
found it to be a mostly hollow shell but still had much of the skin, the legs
still remained, and the skull and head were still mostly intact and completely
recognizable as a buffalo. This morning, however, there was nothing left but
about 1/2 of the rib cage and a "barely-there" skeletal remnant of
the neck and head. The horns were the only thing that revealed this animal to
have been a buffalo. In only 12 hours this carcass had been ravaged beyond all
recognition - which was only 24 hours from the kill. As our Guide, Formen, described, most of the
carnivores of the wild kingdom had played a role in this 24-hour cleaning. The
various 5 types of vultures had picked the bones clean of all sinew and meat
remnants on and in between the ribs and all other places with a few other small
animals having maybe had a piece of the meal. The hyenas had taken care of the
rest - meat, skin and bones alike.
She then moved to the pelvis that had been
left laying on the ground disfigured from its natural position when it was held
in place by the muscles and ligaments. Another hyena soon joined her. They
fought over the pelvis, and the newcomer won.
The original on-site female relinquished herself to some ribs again. It
was amazing to see an animal picked so cleanly in such a short period of time.
Then, it was off to a sighting of a leopard which was
reported to be a difficult viewing. They were right...but they didn't have Formen! She was in the very thick brush laying down
with a carcass of her last kill. The other Rover full of people decided it was
not worth the time and moved on. Formen, on the other hand, said "Let's
just wait here for a short while . . .she will come out." Always trust Foremen. Sure enough. After
about 5 minutes of hearing her crunching on bones herself, she emerged. She lay
out next to the brush to clean herself just like any cat. Her beauty was
spectacular. We were a mere 10 feet from her. We watched her delicately and assiduously
clean
herself, licking her paws and wiping her face over and over again, using one paw than the other.
Not long after that we found ourselves in the middle of the
buffalo herd again. An immense sea of black bodies and grey-white horns. The
buffalo are not particularly trusting animals - not like the cats we've seen -
and are quite edgy about our presence. They raise their heads up from their
grazing, stare you right in the eye, watch you intensely for 30-60 seconds,
then move further away from you - often times in an abrupt head raise and
uneasy trot in the other direction. Given that these are such large animals
with rather intimidating heads of horns, I'm always hoping their abrupt and
uneasy movements are always away from us.
If that stalking and chasing scene weren't enough to excite
us all, here come a small herd of elephant over the very same ridge on which the lions had entered the scene. Are you kidding me?! This is incredible!
How often do you see all of these animals in one space?! Again, the image of a
documentary scene came to mind, yet I was witnessing this first hand. What
would the lions do about the elephants we wondered...we couldn't wait to find
out! The elephants gave off a
horn-sounding cry...they apparently smelled the lions and were none too happy
about it. They took the path of the buffalo, across to the right and back
behind us, never reaching closer than about 40 or 50 yards from us.
Where were the lions at this point we wondered....leave it
to Formen. I had wanted to follow the herd and the lions to see what if
anything would transpire or if the lions had just given up and stopped
following the herd. Well without agreeing to such, Formen started driving away
from the last sighting of the lions giving chase, which had been a huge
disappointment for me. I was thinking that Formen decided that was just a bit
too risky for us, and I resigned myself to being quite overjoyed with the scene
I just witnessed. Then after about a minute of driving, Formen took a right,
then another right, and there they were....all 4 lions sitting on a mound
raised up and clear from the brush from which position they could see the plains
better. We had the most perfect lion sighting.
They were all sitting next to each other in about a 6 foot by 6 foot space, looking about, seemingly reconsidering their next move and whether to follow the buffalo, exhibiting the affectionate interaction I've come to see in various lion stories now. We couldn't have been more than 10-15 yards from them. It was just unbelievable. Of course, more amazing photos were taken.
This young group of 3 lions and a lioness were
just not quite experienced enough to take on 1, let alone 2, large male
buffalo, but luckily they made no mortal mistakes and would live to try another
day.
For more information about the lodge at which I was staying for these incredible drives, see here: Tanda Tula
To see more of my photos while at Tanda Tula, see here: My African Safari Best Shots - 1 and here: My African Safari Best Shots - 2
For more information about the lodge at which I was staying for these incredible drives, see here: Tanda Tula
To see more of my photos while at Tanda Tula, see here: My African Safari Best Shots - 1 and here: My African Safari Best Shots - 2
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